Caring For Your Establised Rose Bush
When the harsh weather of winter has ended uncover your Roses and spread the medium around the bed. This will act as a top dressing. More soil, composted manure, or bark mulch, can be spread over the bed.
A good rule is to start pruning your Roses in the Spring when you see the Forsythia Bloom. Prune Roses then spray with Dormant Oil and Lime sulphur solution, also spray the surrounding ground.
Feed each Rose bush 1 cup Alfalfa meal, (when Alfalfa breaks down it stimulates Rose root growth). 1/4 cup Magnesium Sulphate, (The Magnesium assists in plant chlorophyll production, the Sulphate adds Sulphur to the soil needed for healthy Roses). 1/4 cup Bone meal, ( this adds Phosphorus and sweetens the soil). (Roses prefer pH of 6.2).
2 tablespoons of Paramagnetic Mineral Soil,( The mineral soil facilitates a plants ability to transport the minerals through it’s root system leading to faster growth, deeper, more efficient roots, flower blooms will be brighter and possess superior fragrance, plants will also be more resistant to stress). I can certainly attest to this. Gently work the ingredients into the ground around the drip line of each plant.
When the Rose Bush starts to leaf out, start feeding with Raingrow Organic Fertilizer
4-2-3. Mixing 10ml of product to a litre of water feed every two week’s. Once a month, when rose is fully leafed out, foliar spray, mixing 2ml to a litre of water spray on leaves till run off. Do not apply in the heat of the day or when temperatures are above 30 c
I have found this foliar spray very beneficial in the prevention of aphids and powdery mildew.
Also I use growth plus once a month when the Rose is fully leafed out, again use as a foliar spray mixing 10 ml to a litre of water. This will give the leaf a nice glossy look and aids the nutritional uptake of plants. In addition it contains 70 trace minerals plus vitamins. The ideal uptake of Growth Plus is achieved when plants are sprayed first thing in the morning or late afternoon.
Water Roses deeply the best way is a buried soaker hose used one day a week ALL DAY. Never water the foliage of a Rose bush this promotes Black Spot and Rust.
Clean up all leaf litter and dead head spent blooms on a regular basis, check your Roses daily and pick off any infected leaves as they appear. In mid-summer remove some of the bottom foliage to improve air circulation.
Growing plants that attract beneficial insects will keep aphid populations down E.g., Cosmos, Dill, Marigolds, Garlic. Also, check out these chives seeds you can plant in your garden.
In late August stop Fertilizing your Roses, you do not want to promote new growth that can be injured in winter. In October stop dead heading the Roses, just remove the petals, this will cause the Rose to go to seed and stop producing new growth.
Usually by the end of November it is cold enough to strip the leaves off the plant and clean up all leaf litter. DO NOT PRUNE. Except for long spindly growth that could be damaged in winter. Dolomite Lime the Rose beds using 5 lb. per 105 sq. ft. This will sweeten the soil for next Spring.
Dormant Oil and Lime Sulphur the bare canes and then mound over the plant covering the crown with app 8 inches Bark Mulch, compost, or a soil mix for planting can be used.
The Recipe once again is: 1 CUP ALFALFA PELLETS
for established roses only ¼ cup MAGNESIUM SULPHATE
¼ CUP BONEMEAL
2 TBS Paramagnetic Mineral Soil
We hope this information will give you Large and Happy Roses.
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